Heaters
The requirement for a water heater is optional and in native
tropical climate the aquaria work perfectly well without these.
Water heaters are important only in cold climates if the
aquarist proposes to keep tropical down stream fishes. The water
temperature that suits most tropical fresh water fishes is about
75°F (24°C). An aquarium heater connected to a thermostat is
usually required in such situations. Heating similar sized tanks
with multiple heaters controlled by one master thermostat is
possible, but this method can be unreliable, as a heater failure in
the master tank will lead to the others becoming dangerously
overheated.
The power output of the heater should be selected with care.
Allow 10 watts per gallon (3.8liters) as a rough estimate when
choosing a heater. For large tanks, 36inch (90 cm) and over, two
heaters may share the total required wattage and be controlled by
one thermostat. There should be a suitable model thermometer
to measure the temperature of the aquarium continually.
Fluctuations by a degree or so is nothing to worry about and the
problem of temperature fluctuations is the least thing an aquarium
hobbyist in the tropics might have to give a care for.
Lighting
The aquarium needs to have a balanced lighting to accentuate
the visual effect of the iridescent hues of pet fishes. It acts as a
stimulus to the fishes, and is needed by aquatic plants for
photosynthesis. This latter function is most important, for the
reason that the plants during photosynthesis absorb carbon dioxide
from the water, thus lowering the level of this unwanted gas. About
10 to 15 hrs of lighting a day will provide the plants with their
minimum light requirements.
Natural lighting is ideal provided the illumination is
diffused or filtered. To Provide the tank with the correct amount
and type of natural lighting will be a serious impediment to the
width of site choices. Hence it is customary to opt for artificial
illumination using either the ordinary tungsten bulbs or preferably,
fluorescent lamps. The former, while being inexpensive and
convenient, have high running cost, short life and potentially heat
up the aquarium. Fluorescent lighting, in spite of being more
expensive, contribute less to running costs and provide cool and
even lighting. If fluorescent lights are preferred, the hood length
should be chosen to match the available tube sizes.
The use of a cover glass over the tank will prevent excessive
water loss due to evaporation, fish escape attempts and damage to
light fittings by condensation. The hood for lighting should be well
ventilated to prolong the life of the bulb and to disperse excess
heat. Clarity of water is important for proper lighting, appearance
and health of the fishes.
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